Six Easy Paddle Trips

A lazy river or chain of lakes can keep a family of paddlers occupied for one day or several.

By Greg Breining

In May and June, high water and warm weather intersect to make for some of the best canoeing of the year. Minnesota has plenty of good routes to pick from, whether you're an expert or beginner. Here are six routes for families to try, taken from the Department of Natural Resources' new canoe guide, Paddling Minnesota.

Mississippi: Lake Itasca to Bemidji

Character: Mississippi, Father of Waters, Old Man River, Great River--by any name the greatest of U.S. rivers presents many different faces to canoeists. This stretch is intimate and wooded, with a few easy rapids to negotiate and beaver dams to pull over.

Length: 62 miles. Many shorter trips are possible.

Average run time: Two to four days for the whole stretch.

Skill level: Beginner to intermediate, with wilderness camping skills.

Optimal flow: Above 1.9 feet on the gauge next to the trail bridge at Coffee Pot Landing; above 6.0 feet on the gauge on the County Route 5 bridge; or above 4.2 feet on the gauge on the township bridge south of County Route 7 (north of Fern Lake).

Average gradient: 2.1 feet per mile.

Hazards: You might have to pull over deadfalls and beaver dams.

Maps: Mississippi Headwaters River Trail published by Mississippi Headwaters Board and the DNR.

The paddling: Itasca is an attractive (albeit small) lake to canoe, not only for its geographical and historical appeal, but also because the surrounding park is undeniably one of the state's finest. From Itasca, you'll have to carry around or drag over the line of boulders that forms a crude dam at the outlet of the lake. Downstream the Mississippi is wild and intimate as it meanders slowly past birch and spruce forest and, at times, open marsh. Be prepared to pull over beaver dams.

About eight miles below the lake, the stream flows over Vekin's Dam, a logging dam built to store water and logs and then to flush them through the several miles of sandy shoals downstream. Portage left, about 50 yards.

About 20 miles below Itasca, the Mississippi enters a large wetland, where the channel can be difficult to find and follow. After about four miles of marshy shores, the stream enters a narrow wooded valley and for the next two miles runs through riffles and easy rapids known as Stumphges Rapids.

The river continues a meandering path past woods and marsh. End your trip at Lake Irving, or continue into Lake Bemidji.

Access: The Lake Itasca put-in is located in Itasca State Park, about 20 miles southwest of Bemidji as the crow flies. The Bemidji take-out is located on the south edge of town, on the north shore of Lake Irving.

Alternate accesses are Gulsvig Landing, Wanagan Landing, Coffee Pot Landing, County Route 3, Bear Den Landing, Pine Point, Iron Bridge Landing, and Grosbeak Rest Area.

Shuttle: 40 miles one way. About one hour 45 minutes.

Voyageurs National Park

Character: With all their islands and campsites, the large, interconnected lakes of Voyageurs National Park provide fascinating exploration for boaters, especially sea kayakers, with plenty of protected coves and shorelines to paddle when weather is windy.

Paddling time: Day trips to trips of several days.

Hazards: Stormy weather on the big lakes can make paddling difficult or even hazardous. Paddlers must keep an eye out for motorboat traffic. Black bears are campsite pests, even on some islands; hang food or use bear lockers.

Maps: Small maps with information about the park are available from Superintendent, Voyageurs National Park, 3131 Highway 53, International Falls, MN 56649-8904; or call 218-283-9821. Larger-scale navigational charts and other publications are available from Lake States Interpretive Association at the park address, or call 218-283-2103.

The paddling: Voyageurs, stretching 40 miles along the Minnesota-Ontario border, is a varied country, where the interplay of rock, water, and forest is almost continual. In fact, a third of the park's area is water, most of it contained in four large lakes: Kabetogama, Namakan, Sand Point, and the giant Rainy, which extends more than 20 miles into Canada. The lakes are rock-ribbed and windy, bound by cliff and outcrops. Their hilly shorelines are covered with a dense forest of birch, aspen, spruce, pine, and other conifers. They are often too windy and wavy for pleasant or safe canoeing. But with miles of water available without a portage, they are perfectly suited to sea kayaking. Channels and islands provide shelter and points of interest. Plenty of campsites front the water.

Launching from Ash River, for example, you can paddle west directly into Kabetogama or slip eastward through a maze of protected channels and islands into Namakan, which has dozens of primitive campsites on isolated peninsulas and islands. Turning northward and following the international boundary takes you to the Kettle Falls Hotel, built in 1913 to serve the lumberjacks and rising tide of bootleggers, prostitutes, prospectors, and sportsmen. Accessible only by boat or plane, the hotel still serves the public with rooms, a restaurant, and bar. By making a short portage you gain access to Rainy Lake, with hundreds of channels and islands on the Minnesota and Ontario shores.

With a canoe and light pack, it's possible to follow the shoreline of the peninsula and portage inland to the lightly traveled interior lakes.

Voyageurs' large lakes provide often-exceptional fishing for walleyes, northern pike, and smallmouth bass. Shoepack and Little Shoepack harbor muskies, while Cruiser, Mukooda, and Little Trout hold lake trout.

Combining a houseboat with canoes or kayaks provides a great way to see this lake. Round up the family or a bunch of friends and rent a fully equipped boat near International Falls. Throw a couple of canoes or kayaks on board and follow the navigation buoys in Rainy Lake to any number of shoreline campsites. Use the small boats to fish and explore. Cook and take shelter from bad weather in the big boat.

Access: Rainy Lake Visitor Center is located 12 miles east of International Falls on Minnesota 11. Kabetogama Lake Visitor Center is located in the community of Kabetogama, on the southwest shore of Kabetogama Lake. Woodenfrog State Forest Campground is located about five miles north of Kabetogama on County Route 122. Ash River Visitor Center is located on the south shore of the channel between Kabetogama and Namakan lakes, off County Route 129. Ash River access is located at the end of County Route 129 on Sullivan Bay. Crane Lake access is located in the town of Crane Lake, on the southwest shore of its namesake.

Pine: Cross Lake Dam to Mississippi River

Character: The Pine River is a hidden gem, unheralded, largely unappreciated. Yet it is a joy to paddle--gentle and clear, with a sandy bottom and wooded banks. With only a few easy rapids, the Pine provides an enjoyable trip for beginning and experienced canoeists.

Length: 18.8 miles.

Average run time: Six to nine hours.

Skill level: Beginner.

Optimal flow: More than 200 cubic feet per second by the gauge at the Pine River Dam, or more than 2 feet on the gauge on the County Route 11 bridge (Harvey Drake Landing).

Average gradient: 2 feet per mile.

Hazards: Low rock dam just downstream from Pine Lake.

Maps: DNR.

The paddling: Put in just downstream from the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers dam at the outlet of Cross Lake in the resort community of Cross Lake. About 1.5 miles downstream, the Pine speeds through Gould Rapids and Anton Rapids, both easy. The river enters Pine Lake and emerges a mile later. The river then winds quietly through woods of pine and hardwoods. A mile before the confluence with the Mississippi, the Pine again speeds through easy rapids. Unfortunately, paddlers will have to pass most of them by if they plan to take out at the Harvey Drake landing. An alternative is to continue to the Mississippi and then downstream eight miles to Half Moon Landing.

The Pine isn't renowned as a fishing stream, though it is likely to hold any number of species that might swim up from the Mississippi. It does have some of the largest and most willing rock bass you are likely to find anywhere--great quarry for a beginner with a fly rod. Other species include northern pike, walleye, and smallmouth bass.

Access: Cross Lake Dam put-in: From Cross Lake, follow County Route 3 to the south edge of town. The carry-in access is below the dam on river right. Mississippi River take-out at Harvey Drake Landing: From Cross Lake, take County Route 3 four miles south to County Route 11, turn east and drive seven miles to the bridge over the Pine and the landing.

To make for a shorter trip, choose one of the other accesses:

Staircase Landing

southeast of Cross Lake off County Route 36 or the boat ramp at the west end of Pine Lake off County Route 3.

Shuttle: 11 miles one way. About 30 minutes.

Rum: Onamia to Vandell Brook

Character: Soon after leaving its headwater lakes, the Rum begins its run through many easy rapids. This stretch makes for fun canoeing at most water levels and provides terrific fishing, especially for smallmouth bass.

Length: 38 miles. Access is possible at many established accesses and bridges. Most paddlers will opt for day trips, but a few campsites make overnight trips possible.

Average run time: Two days to run the whole stretch.

Skill level: Beginner.

Optimal flow: 0.5 feet or higher on the gauge on the County Route 25 bridge south of Onamia. Mille Lacs acts as a huge reservoir, maintaining water levels through much of the summer.

Average gradient: 6.7 feet per mile.

Hazards: Portage the dam at Milaca.

Maps: DNR.

The paddling: Below Onamia, near its confluence with Bradbury Brook, the Rum races through Bradbury Rapids, the trickiest rapids on the river. From then on the river runs through many easier rapids. Portage the dam in Milaca on river left, about 70 yards.

The riverbanks vary from hardwood-covered uplands to farmland and pasture. Even the river's brief foray through Milaca is peaceful and bucolic as it flows through a city park. The alternating easy rapids and pools provide exceptional habitat for smallmouth bass. Deep, still shorelines hold northern pike up to several pounds.

Access: The Onamia put-in is located on the west edge of town on Minnesota 27. To reach the Vandell Brook take-out, drive south from Milaca on U.S. 169 about 3.5 miles to Pease; turn east on County Route 8 and drive about three miles to County Route 4; turn north about 0.25 mile to the bridge.

Access is also possible at the highway wayside rest at U.S. 169, the Milaca dam, the Milaca city park in town on County Route 36, and at the many county road bridges between Onamia and Milaca.

Shuttle: About 30 miles one way from Onamia to Vandell Brook. About one hour 15 minutes.

Zumbro:Zumbro Lake Dam to Millville

Character: The Zumbro digs deep into the old limestone geology of the southeast, winding past cliffs and outcrops. A broad, riffly stream, the main stem of the Zumbro is good for canoeing and fishing.

Length: 26.3 miles.

Average run time: Nine to 13 hours.

Skill level: Beginner.

Optimal flow: Above 7 feet on the USGS gauge in Zumbro Falls.

Hazards: Watch for snags, especially on the outside of bends.

Maps: DNR.

The paddling: The Zumbro spills from the 30-foot-high dam at Zumbro Lake as a broad stream. The valley too is large, with high hills and rocky bluffs standing at the edge of the flood plain. The current is lively and races through frequent but easy rapids. For the next several miles, the river winds past wooded bluffs with only limited development and gives the impression of flowing far out into wild country.

Unfortunately, the sound of traffic brings paddlers back to reality. A highway follows the river from Zumbro Falls to Millville (and for some distance beyond).

The Zumbro continues to run through easy riffles. With every mile, the valley grows deeper. The river often runs up against limestone cliffs, which cast deep shadows over the water. Hilltops stand up to 300 feet above the river.

Fishing, especially for smallmouth bass, can be excellent.

Access: Zumbro Lake dam put-in: From Rochester, drive north 12 miles on U.S. 63 to South Troy. Turn west on an unnumbered county road to County Road 80. Jog north a half mile and then turn west on another unnumbered road to the access. Millville take-out: Read's Park on County Route 11. You can also gain access to the river at Zumbro Falls and across the river from Hammond.

Shuttle: 13 miles one way. About 45 minutes.

Des Moines:Talcot Lake to Petersburg

Character: The Des Moines offers a leisurely canoe trip along a wooded valley in the midst of prime farmland.

Length: 65 miles.

Average run time: Three to four days. Many shorter trips are possible. A good one-day trip is from Windom to Jackson through Kilen Woods State Park.

Skill level: Beginner.

Optimal flow: 2.5 or higher on the USGS gauge in Jackson.

Average gradient: 1.9 feet per mile.

Hazards: Avoid dams at Talcot Lake, Windom, and Jackson.

Maps: DNR.

The paddling: The Des Moines is a placid farmland river that offers respite from southwestern Minnesota's unrelenting agricultural horizon. It provides a refuge for woodland wildlife, including kingfishers, great blue herons, white-tailed deer, raccoons, and red foxes.

The trip begins at Talcot Lake. Put in at the access below the dam, or at the boat ramp at the south end of the lake to look for wildlife. If you do start on the lake, portage the dam at the outlet. Talcot Lake lies at the center of a 4,000-acre state wildlife management area comprising marshes, bottomlands, uplands, and farmland.

From Talcot Lake to Windom, the Des Moines travels through flat farmland with few trees. The river valley gradually deepens below Windom. Willow, green ash, and slippery elm line the banks. As the river approaches Kilen Woods State Park, the flood plain narrows and bluffs rise to more than 100 feet. An oak savanna--an uncommon grassland with widely scattered trees--is found on the west bank of the river.

From Kilen Woods to Jackson, high hills continue to flank the Des Moines. From Jackson to the state line, however, the river again flows through a shallow, almost treeless valley that is intensively farmed.

Access: Talcot Lake put-in: From Fulda, drive east 8.5 miles on Minnesota 62 and two miles north on County Route 7 to the bridge and access. Petersburg take-out: From Jackson, drive southeast eight miles on County Route 23, just past the bridge over the Des Moines.

Additional accesses are located at Pat's Grove County Park, Windom, Christianna Bridge (County Route 30), Kilen Woods State Park, and Jackson.

Shuttle: 46 miles one way. About two hours.

For water level information check the DNR web site or call the DNR Information Center at 651-296-6157.