Paddle the Mississippi Gorge

When the ice melts and spring rivers start to flow, many people who live in the Twin Cities area turn their gaze to the north woods, the North Shore, and the Boundary Waters with dreams of escape. But many don’t realize there’s a watery getaway—a part of the national park system, even—running right through the heart of the city. Not only that, but the Mississippi National River and Recreation Area contains the only gorge in the river’s 2,350-mile length.

I live in Minneapolis, and a few years ago, I started paddling regularly on Pool 1, which stretches from the Lower St. Anthony Falls Lock and Dam to Lock and Dam 1 below the Ford Parkway Bridge. Each time I hit the water I’m surprised at how remote it feels in the gorge. With hills and cliffs rising up to 100 feet on each side, the sounds of the city fade. Eagles perch in the trees. Peregrine falcons soar through the sky. Channel catfish lurk below. Coyotes lope through the trees.  Beavers ply the surface, and the occasional otter can even be spotted along the shore. The city feels like it’s a million miles away.

The Mississippi River Gorge is one of the biggest and best urban natural areas in the country, and anyone living in the metro barely has to step out their door to get there. 
 

Notable Sights

• The Final Sprint. During the 1940s and 1950s, a 450-mile race called the Paul Bunyan Canoe Derby was run from Bemidji to Minneapolis. The final sprint started at University Flats, the area that now lies below the Washington Avenue Bridge, and finished at the Franklin Bridge, with as many as 100,000 people lining the river to watch.
• The Short Line Bridge. This handsome railroad bridge halfway between the Franklin and Lake Street bridges was built in 1880. Today it carries minimal rail traffic, and local bicyclists and pedestrians hope to ride and walk across it someday as an extension of the Midtown Greenway.
• Meeker Island Lock and Dam. Just downstream from the Short Line Bridge are the remnants of the first lock and dam on the entire Mississippi River. The Meeker Lock opened in 1907 and closed just five years later. In low water, the mooring posts emerge from the river like ghosts of the past.

Logistics

• Paddle Your Own. If you have your own canoe or kayak, easy access points include Bohemian Flats, East River Flats Park, or, if you’re ready to portage a bit, the Minneapolis Rowing Club near the Lake Street Bridge, the trails down to the river at 32nd Street or 42rd Street, or the stairs near 33rd Street.
• Rent a Kayak. If you don’t own a boat, Mississippi River Paddle Share has you covered. You can rent a boat from this giant kayak vending machine at Bohemian Flats, then return it to a station at the Minneapolis Rowing Club. From there, you can either bike, walk, or drive the 4.3 miles back to your start. Learn more at paddleshare.org.
• Use a Guide. Paddle Bridge Kayak Tours offers boats, shuttle rides, and experienced guides to help you get to know the river. Learn more at paddlebridge.com.
• Go With a Group. Wilderness Inquiry leads trips in 24-foot cedar strip canoes through the gorge. Learn more at wildernessinquiry.org.
• Be Safe. Always wear a life jacket and follow the safe paddling practices at mndnr.gov/watertrails/paddling_safety.html.